Wen Zawn and Caff have a hardcover library of eyes.
A few days ago, I was reading forum topics about UKC Aware of the danger, This is a link
Chris explained in the opening post,
“We climbed on horseshoe today, and Colin pointed out the team to our left. The leader rose about six clips, fell a few times, then dropped a few times, stripped all the remaining quick draws. Another guy drove to the high bolt on the high bolt and then quickly fell off.
I shouted my best campus voice, he should have lowered it and pinched at least one bolt under his “just in case.” He apologized, thanked me, and did it. One of our teams chatted with them later and it was their first day climbing the door.
I was a little shocked by their apparent lack of understanding that they could be at risk, that the bolts usually don’t fail, and that the ropes usually don’t fall off – but it can happen. ”
*
Reading this post reminded me (loosely) a few years ago (loosely) of Jack Geldard, James Mchaffie, Adam Wainwright and my decision to climb at Wen Zawn in Gogarth.
It was cloudy. That monochrome sky that gives one thing is not a good thing. The four of us pierced into Zawn, the sea was very happy, the rocks were proud and slippery. The rain almost started and we started to jump around the rocks. The sea must be on the spring tide, it whirls around the boulders, but shallower than I’ve seen before. The scattered noise of the ocean echoes around the enclosed and dark spaces. Steep, glittering walls are vaguely visible.
Adam and I hope to climb a route for the first time in 1991, which was the E7 6a, the best line in Zawn, and perhaps the softest line. Jack and Caff will try Johnny Dawes and Bob Drury E7 6B, known as the hardback vocabulary. The first time the hardback book rose Johnny made several attempts in a few days and set the standard for the route. Without browsing Google (other available search engines), there is a movie that is trying to get and falling off the climb repeatedly, which is E8 level and is obviously dangerous. Of course, Caff is anytime, anywhere, he doesn’t need a big piece of equipment, and there are a few Skyhooks, he will!
The rain is heavy now, and the four of us avoided the shelter behind Zawn. Mr. Softy and Mad Brown, two routes, George Smith, Adam have been in the first game. The walls above, orange, yellow and gray blocks are tap water. The light was unstable, the rocks were dark and became darker. Oh, I think, I did nothing today. At some point, the rain stopped and Caff stood under the hardcover book over the boulder.
“Can we go, Jack?” CAFF suggests.
Jack looked a little confused, but he wasn’t the one who was about to drive into this wet, unprotected wall, so
“Well, yes, okay, James.”
[I’ve always known Caff as Caff, but Jack had always called Caff by his proper name, James. To this day, I’ve never really wondered why this is, and I’ve never asked Caff which he prefers?]
Adam and I jumped to a beautiful crazy look, the beginning of the dangling concrete dam, which was rubble. I reached my hand onto the rock and soaked.
“I’m not trying this today, Adam.”
I turned and looked deep in Sarne, where the Caff (bound by a very caring Jack) was pulled to the wall. I’m pretty sure that once Caff decides not to be in the situation, but with caution, CAFF has made progress, I’m pretty sure that this attempt will end soon. I should know Caff will keep going because in other cases, his toughness is significant in adverse circumstances. In some ways, it can be so tough when a lot of things are against what it happens, which is what puts many difficult routes in trouble.
There was a weird gear, but when he climbed higher it was really weird and didn’t look good. In sporadic situations, Caff would ask Jack to be alert, although I’m honestly sure Jack doesn’t have enough distance (one side to the other) to save on ground drops.
Caff made some very tricky, wet and unprotected moves to the right and placed a sky hook. If the hook is torn, he will definitely hit the ground, as the last gear is on a long way. Shaking, repeatedly shaking, (remember, the rock is wet!), he aimed at a small overhang, and he said he could see possible nut placement. He got to the nut position and he shouted, saying that wasn’t great, and put another sky hook on a small edge. After a while, he started, looking like a tough move, weakening a small overhang. Cave shouted, he could certainly see a good grip, and some gears on it, but in the flash he was weakening one of the tearing pieces, he was flying. I’ve never, or ever since, screamed as I watched someone fall. I was sure I witnessed my friend’s death, but he stopped, with hooks hanging on each rope.
“Suppose I’m Jack.”
He reaches the floor and unbuttons. I must admit I was a little shaking, Jack looked disgusting, but the caff looked pretty good.
“What are we going to do now?” Jack asked, looking up at the wet wall with a few gears on it, two ropes hanging from two distant sky hooks.
Caff looked up and looked up, then turned to Jack and said, “You should put it on the rope Jack on the top, those hooks are bombers.”
*
I have to admit that Chris’ story, and his shock at the climber, stripped away all the draws he was going to lower, and then the next guy won the highest game in this draw and Bolt, reminding me of the Wen Zawn plot. I wonder if Chris would say his best school yard sound that day and say something to Caff?
